In Yorkshire for a family memorial service, this week has seen more knitting than sewing but here is an embroidered K that I just about managed to finish before leaving home. (If you look hard, you might make out long loose stitches tacking the linen to the stabilising backing. These will be undone when I get home when I’ll also surround the design with an outline square of back stitch.)
Kimonos are interesting garments and, rather like saris, were made from the whole of a bolt of fabric (36 cm by 11m) with no waste. Traditionally kimonos are made from seven pieces. Two extend from the front hem, up over the shoulder to the back hem, the sleeves are cut from two further pieces and and another pair form the side panels. The final piece, much narrower than the others forms the neckband which continues down both front pieces to finish the garment off.
Japanese embroidery has its own long history, having developed in an unbroken tradition over at least 1,000 years. Read The Tale of Gengi for brilliant descriptions of kimonos which differ little from the garments we know today, except that wearing one garment at a time was never enough. Status could be read in glimpsed layers of sleeves draped over the edge of a carriage while the rest of the woman remained hidden inside! Snippets of embroidery visible on neckbands crossing the throat tantalised for beauty of both fabric and body beneath. Shizuka Kusano’s The Fine Art of Kimono Embroidery is a wonderful book for learning more about the art and craft of Japanese embroidery and the many pages of excellent photographs are a real joy to study.
Embroidered kimonos exhibit both flat and twisted silk threads as well as metallic threads. Embroiderers were particularly fond of flat stitch in untwisted silk (satin stitch) which gave flowers’s petals a soft smooth sheen. See the V & A’s website for more details about making a kimono.
I blogged last week’s embroidered J for Jug in such a hurry that it was only later that I realised how crumpled the fabric was. I’ve now ironed the embroidery and replaced the photographs with the newly ironed versions. Goodness, standards are slipping!